Korean Trails

Gaji-san, taken from the summit ridge of Baekun-san to the south-west

Located in the northern area of the Yeongnam Alps, Gaji-san is the tallest peak in the range - rising above Unmun-san to the west, Baekun-san and Cheonhwang-san to the south and Munbok-san to the north. The Nakdong-jeongmaek trail passes over its summit, heading southeast to Ganwol-san and Northeast to Goheon-san. Gaji-san is a junction for trails leading to all the peaks of the Northern Alps, but the majority of hikers up there will be completing the 10km circuit trail from Seongnam-sa in Gaji-san's deep eastern gorge.

Seongnam-sa (석남사) is the most prominent temple on the slopes of the mountain, located in a deep valley, between two large arms of the mountain which form a horse-shoe ridge making for a good circuit trail to Gaji-san.

Main trail: Seongnam-sa car park - 2.3km / 1hr20min - Seongnam-gogae

The main Seongnam-sa carpark is at the Seongnam-sa-hyugeso, just outside the grand front gates to the temple on a tight bend in provincial road 69 - this is also the bus stop. Seongnamsa-hyugeso has a number of good restaurants, all of which sell fresh and dried mountain vegetables and locally produced makali, as well as the standard meals that can usually be found at busy mountain entrances - a couple of these restaurants are also small marts with basic trail supplies and snacks. It's 2000won for the day to park, and there is a lot of space in the overflow carpark out the back - this is usually only full in the summer months when the stream in the Seongnam-sa valley is packed with wading picnickers.

500 metres south along the ridge trail from Songnam-gogae is the Seongnam tunnel (left), where the road winding up from Seongnam-sa crosses the high ridge. There are more restaurants and marts at this popular high mountain starting point to hike Gaji-san. To get there continue on road 69 climbing past Seongnam-sa toward Baenaegol - turn off at the next right to reach the pass (slow 15min drive from Seongnam Hyugeso - no bus service)

A cold walk from Seongnam-gogae to Gaji-san, -15'c at sea level, Dec 31, 2009 (right)

Seongnam-gogae - 2.3km / 1hr20min - Gaji-san

From the pass the trail offers a bit of respite for tired legs as it heads right (north) along the Nakdong-jeongmaek ridge trail, maintaining good height through a thick, low forest, with occasional views in pockets on all sides. The ridge bends west to face the mountain, and after about a kilometre you'll reach the Gaji-san Seongnam-jae Daepiso 가지산석남재대피소, a beat up old shelter held together with plastic sheets of a variety of colours and ages but with, surprisingly, a proper hardwood, turning knob front door. This is essentially a booze shack doing Makali, beers and soju - with noodles, coffee, tea and water available - as I've mentioned before in this section, the Yeongnam Alps hosts a number of these shelters, this is the first of three on this circuit.

Rocky viewpoint and the final approach to Gaji-san

Gajisan Seongnam-jae shelter is at the base of a long staircase, from which the climb to the summit begins in earnest as the ridge rises over 200 metres over half a kilometre to a rocky outcop (left), offering great views of Gaji-san, and its south-western ridge - and beyond to Cheonhwang-san in Milyang from just off the trail.

The trail heads north-west, dipping into a shallow pass before climbing steeply up Gaji-s eastern face, its summit is a rocky dome. Over the final couple of hundred metres you can stick to the left, ascending on the main trail or have a scramble up the rock face to the marker stele on the summit.

Being the highest peak of the Alps, the view from the top can be quite spectacular, south-east and north-east you can follow the path of the Nakdong-jeongmaek. West over Milyang's mountains you may be able to make out Gaya-san on a clear day. To the east, the city of Ulsan and the Sea to Japan.

Gaji is a pokey, rocky summit, and can only accommodate a few sprawled out hikers, if you want to rest and picnic there is an open helipad area on the southwestern side of the peak, and also another shelter, the classic Gani-sanjang just below the peak on the same side.

Gaji-san Sanjang

Although little more than a tin shack, this shelter just below the peak is a real beauty, and quite an iconic feature of the Yeongnam Alps. The couple who run the place are interesting and very welcoming, they make their own makali on site, and serve up Dubu-kimchi, ramen and sometime Pajeon (this depends if the wife is there). The star of the shelter is "Jisan" their dog, a friendly Jindo with painted on eyebrows lovingly applied by the lady of the shack - they look hilarious. Jisan has made his way on to a couple of Variety TV shows, and most hikers are keen to give him a pat and take a picture. Jisan was retired this year, the owner tells me he had too much stress - ah the pressures of fame - his replacement is "Haneul", Jisan's son, a chirpy little puppy who for the time being has his own eyebrows.   

Gaji-san - 1.3km / 35min - Ssal-bawi 쌀바위

The three rocky tops of Ssal-bawi are said to resemble a reclining Buddha from far away, kind of like a compacted version of the famous ridge of Duryun-san in Jeollanam-do which has this shape.

Ssal-bawi literally means "Rice Rock". Legend has it that small amounts of rice would come out of the rock when monks prayed here. The monks apparently got too greedy and broke into the rock to access all of the rice, which is why it no longer produces any today, just a steady trickle of fresh water from the spring on its eastern face.

The trail leaves from the peak of Gaji-san, heading north-east along the ridge toward the Ssal-bawi rocks. This is an easy 1.3km stroll through low sub-alpine forest, with occasional views through openings in the tree cover and rocky viewpoints off the trail, over Eonyang to the east.

NOTE - there was once a trail running from Ssal-bawi directly down to Seongnam-sa, and was probably the preferred return route for most hikers. This trail has been closed, but remains on many maps, don't plan on taking this trail, it's off-limits and bordered up.

Ssal-bawi marks the end of an unsealed mountain road, which runs along the ridge from Unmun-ryeong, the next road crossing of the Nakdong-jeongmaek. To mark the end of the road, where many people stroll or mountain bike to from the pass, is yet another rest area (right) where you can get a drink and a bite to eat.

The trail heading down to Seongnam-sa is not too well maintained, its steep and meandering, and appears a bit ad-hoc with numerous options around rocks, trees and bends - as long as you're heading down you're going in the right direction. It's 1.7km from the road to the temple, expect this to take 45min plus, particularly in the wet when the clay based trail can be quite slippery. Once near the temple the grounds are bordered off with barbed wire, stay to the left of this and once past take trails which favour the right. You'll end up on a small road on the northern side of the stream flowing through Seongnam-sa, walk toward thye temple on this road and cross the bridge to get to the main Seongnam-sa entrance driveway. This beautiful lane is 600m long and will take you down to the main carpark and Seongnam-sa Hyugeso.